Day Trip: Lisbon to Mafra + Ericeira (Palace + Surf Town Combo)

This is one of my favourite day trips from Lisbon because it gives you two completely different experiences in one day: a jaw-dropping piece of Baroque architecture in Mafra, followed by a whitewashed Atlantic fishing village turned World Surfing Reserve in Ericeira. They're only 15 minutes apart by car. You don't need to choose - you can have both.

Why this combination works

Most day trips from Lisbon offer you one thing. Sintra is palaces. Cascais is a coastal town. Óbidos is a medieval village. The Mafra + Ericeira combo is different because the two places complement each other so well: a morning of incredible history and architecture, then an afternoon of sea air, fresh seafood, and watching surfers ride Atlantic swells. Architecture lovers and beach lovers can both have a good day.

Neither place is overrun with tourists in the way that Sintra or Cascais can be, which makes the whole day feel more relaxed. Mafra gets visitors but rarely feels crowded. Ericeira has a loyal following - particularly among surfers and Lisbon weekenders - but keeps its local character.

Getting there

By car (recommended)

Driving from Lisbon to Mafra takes about 45 minutes on the A8 motorway, then the IC30. There's parking near the palace. From Mafra to Ericeira is another 15 minutes by road - genuinely easy. If you're comfortable driving in Portugal, this is the most flexible option and I'd recommend it.

By public transport

It's doable but requires some coordination. From Lisbon, take a Mafrense bus from Campo Grande bus station to Mafra - the journey takes around 1 hour and costs approximately€4. Buses run several times a day, but check the Mafrense timetable before you go as services can be infrequent.

From Mafra to Ericeira, there are local buses (also Mafrense) that run the 15-minute route, or you can take a taxi for around €10–15. Getting back from Ericeira to Lisbon directly: there are Mafrense buses from Ericeira that go directly to Campo Grande - useful for the return journey so you don't have to backtrack through Mafra.

If you're going by public transport, download the Mafrense timetable in advance and plan your connections. The last buses back from Ericeira to Lisbon don't run very late, so keep an eye on the time.

Mafra: the Palácio Nacional de Mafra

The Palácio Nacional de Mafra is one of the most extraordinary buildings in Portugal, and one that most visitors to Lisbon completely overlook. That's a shame, because it's genuinely astonishing.

King João V commissioned it in the early 18th century as a royal palace, Franciscan monastery, and basilica all in one. The numbers are staggering: the building has 1,200 rooms, 156 staircases, and a façade over 220 metres wide. The basilica at the centre is a masterpiece of Portuguese Baroque, with pink and grey marble columns and a choir loft fitted with six enormous pipe organs - some of the finest in the world - that were played together only on royal occasions.

Entry costs €6 and it's worth every cent. Allow 1.5 to 2 hours for a proper visit. The guided route takes you through the state apartments, the monks' cells, the basilica, the infirmary, and - most memorably - the Mafra Library.

The library: the bat story

The library at Mafra is genuinely one of the most beautiful rooms in Portugal. It contains around36,000 books, some dating back to the 15th century, in floor-to-ceiling wooden shelves running the length of a long, barrel-vaulted hall. The collection is in extraordinary condition.

The reason the books have survived so well? Bats. A colony of pipistrelle bats lives in the library and has done for centuries. Every night they emerge and eat the insects that would otherwise destroy the bindings and pages. The library staff cover the reading tables and shelves with leather covers each evening and clean in the morning. It's a completely medieval conservation system that works perfectly. You probably won't see the bats during a daytime visit, but knowing they're up in the rafters somewhere makes the whole thing feel wonderfully gothic.

Ericeira: Portugal's World Surfing Reserve

After Mafra, it's a 15-minute drive (or quick taxi or bus) to Ericeira - and the contrast is dramatic. Where Mafra is grandeur and stone, Ericeira is whitewashed walls, bright blue window frames, sea air, and the sound of waves.

Ericeira was declared a World Surfing Reserve in 2011 - one of only a handful in the world (alongside Malibu, Santa Cruz, and a few others). The reserve covers a 4km stretch of coastline with several world-class surf breaks, the most famous being Ribeira d'Ilhas, which regularly hosts international surfing competitions.

You don't need to surf to enjoy Ericeira. The village itself is charming - narrow cobbled streets, a clifftop promenade with views over the ocean, fishing boats in the harbour, and a genuinely good selection of seafood restaurants. Watching surfers from the cliff path above Ribeira d'Ilhas is free and endlessly entertaining, especially when the swell is up.

The beaches

Praia do Sul is the main beach right below the village, with golden sand and calmer conditions than the surf beaches. Good for a swim in summer.

Ribeira d'Ilhas is about 2km north of town (walkable along the cliff path, or drive). This is the main surf break - a long right-hand point that works on most swells. Even on flat days it's worth seeing the setup.

Praia do Norte catches more swell and is popular with experienced surfers. Less suitable for swimming.

Where to eat in Ericeira

Ericeira has some excellent seafood restaurants, particularly along Rua Dr. Eduardo Burnayand in the streets around the central square. Fresh fish, grilled sea bream, and the local seafood rice (arroz de marisco) are all good choices. Expect to pay around €12–20 per personfor a full meal with wine, which is reasonable for the quality.

If you want something cheaper and quicker, there are snack bars near the beach selling bifanas(pork sandwiches), grilled fish, and cold drinks - perfectly adequate for a lunch stop before an afternoon exploring.

The village also has good pastry shops and coffee spots. Mar d'Areia near the centre is a popular café with locals if you want a quieter afternoon coffee.

Full itinerary

9:00am - Depart Lisbon

Leave by 9am if driving - you'll arrive in Mafra around 9:45–10am. If using the bus, check the Mafrense timetable and aim to be on the first morning service from Campo Grande.

10:00am – 12:00pm - Palácio Nacional de Mafra

The palace opens at 9:30am. Give yourself a full two hours: the guided route, the basilica, and the library. Don't rush the library - it's the highlight.

12:15pm - Drive or taxi to Ericeira (15 min)

1:00pm - Seafood lunch in Ericeira

Pick a restaurant near the centre. Order the catch of the day or the seafood rice if they have it. This is not a day to rush lunch.

2:30pm - Explore the village and cliffs

Walk the clifftop promenade, look down at Praia do Sul, and head up to the viewpoint above Ribeira d'Ilhas if the surf is running. The walk along the coast path takes about 30–40 minutes each way.

4:00pm - Coffee and wind down

Grab a coffee in the village, browse the surf shops on the main street, or just sit somewhere with a view and enjoy the last of the afternoon light.

5:00–6:00pm - Head back to Lisbon

By car, you'll be back in 45 minutes. By Mafrense bus direct from Ericeira to Campo Grande, check the evening timetable before you leave and don't miss the last service.

Who this day trip is best for

Couples where one person loves history/architecture and the other prefers coastal settings - this combination genuinely satisfies both.
People who've already done Sintra and want a less-touristed alternative with equal depth.
Surfers or surf-curious travellers who also want some cultural content in their day.
Anyone who likes their day trips with actual breathing room - neither Mafra nor Ericeira gets anywhere near the crowds of Sintra or Cascais.

Practical tips

Mafra Palace tickets cost €6. Book online at palaciodemafra.gov.pt or buy on the day - it's rarely sold out.
Driving is easiest, but the public transport option via Mafrense works if you plan your connections carefully.
The library visit is included in the standard palace ticket. Don't miss it.
Surf lessons: If you want to try surfing in Ericeira, there are several surf schools offering lessons from around €35–45 for a 2-hour group session. Book ahead in summer.
Best season: Surf is best in autumn and winter (September–March). For swimming and beach days, go May–September. The palace is worth visiting year-round.
Mafra town itself (separate from the palace) has a small market and some cafés - good for a quick breakfast or coffee if you arrive early.